As is the case in every corner of the winemaking world, some of the best Niagara wines are made in the shadows. A growing brigade of vintners are creating brands outside of the established system. They don’t own wineries. They don’t own vineyards. As such, they don’t meet the requirements to get the necessary processing licence from the provincial government. But they are inordinately skilled, emphatically passionate and supremely motivated to find ways to express the best of the region.
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